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Introduction
Compact utility tractors are popular with
farmers, landscape contractors and rural landowners.
In fact, compact tractors are by far the
best-selling tractor category. These small tractors
are virtually useless by themselves, but they are
versatile when equipped with the proper implements
and attachments. A separate publication discussed
the selection and use of compact tractors. This
publication discusses the selection of suitable
implements for use with compact tractors. Not every
contractor, farmer or rural homeowner will need all
of these implements, but a select few of them can
make any tractor more versatile. Compact tractor
implements can be classified several ways such as
agricultural or landscape; tillage, maintenance or
materials handling; front, mid or rear; etc., but
these categories are sometimes confusing and
overlapping. Implements in this publication are
listed alphabetically.
Aerator / Dethatchers
Turf aerators
are used to cut turfgrass tillers and cut or
puncture the soil surface. Some are designed to
puncture the thatch layer and bring soil cores up on
top of the thatch to aid in thatch decomposition.
Dethatchers are similar machines, but generally use
spring tines to rake up thatch rather than slicing
or puncturing the thatch and soil. Some machines
have two kinds of tines to perform both operations.
The overall purpose of these machines is to reduce
thatch in turfgrass.
Aerators and dethatchers
work well on compact tractors. They can be either 3-
point mounted or pull-type. If using the 3-point
type, you must be careful not to turn with the
implement on the ground. Most aerators have some
provision for adding weight to the machine, and
extra weight is often needed for adequate soil
penetration. Several types of aerator tines are
available. Some are flat blades that slice the soil.
Others are solid round tines that puncture the soil.
The best tines are hollow and bring up cores of soil
from the holes rather than just pushing holes into
the soil (and thus compacting the soil around the
holes). When using any of these dethatchers, the
holes should be refilled with porous material to
hold them open. This can be done by topdressing with
a thin layer of sand or by using a harrow or drag to
break up the cores and sprinkle the loosened
material back into the core holes – and into the
thatch layer. When a dethatcher is used, the thatch
that is loosened should be raked up for disposal.
Massive amounts of thatch are loosened by
dethatching.
Of all the methods of thatch
control discussed above, using a core aerator to
remove cores and then breaking up the cores and
scattering the material in the thatch layer and back
in the holes is the most effective at breaking down
and controlling thatch.
Box Blade
A box blade is useful
around building and landscape construction sites or
anywhere loose material such as soil or gravel needs
to be moved short distances. Box blades have blades
on the front and back side of the rear of the box,
thus they can push or pull soil; however, they can
only constrain soil in the box when moving forward.
Most box blades have ripper teeth on the front
toolbar that can be adjusted for depth or lifted out
of the way. The teeth allow you to break up hard
soil before scraping. On some heavy-duty box blades,
the teeth can be rotated up and down with a
hydraulic cylinder, but, on most box blades sold for
compact tractors, the teeth are manually adjusted
with mechanical latches. With a box blade you can
scrape up a pile of soil (or gravel, sand, etc.) and
drag it a short distance, then spread it or dump it.
You can also operate the blade in reverse to smooth
or level the surface.
Box blade widths range
from 4 feet on up. Most box blades for use with
compact tractors are 5 to 6 feet wide. As with an
angle blade, the implement should be at least as
wide as the tractor tires for practical operation,
but a blade that is too wide will overload the
tractor.
Quality is less of a problem with
box blades than with angle blades, but select one
that is heavy enough to stall the tractor before
bending. The ripper teeth tend to be the most easily
damaged part of the implement. Even though the box
blade is heavy enough to handle impacts with objects
like stumps and roots, you should use caution since
these impacts can damage the 3-point hitch or other
components on the tractor.
Front Blade
Blades can also be
mounted on the front of compact tractors. Front
blades are much less common than rear blades, but
they offer an advantage in visibility. Front blades
are more difficult and time consuming to install
since they do not fit on a 3-point hitch. Most front
blades can be angled from side to side; some can be
angled vertically, but that feature is much less
common. Some models can be angled hydraulically.
Raising and lowering the front blade is done in
different ways. Some models use a hydraulic
cylinder; others are linked to the 3-point hitch.
The models linked to the 3-point hitch avoid the
need for remote hydraulics on the tractor but
prevent other uses of the 3-point hitch when the
blade is installed. A front blade cannot be used for
back-dragging unless the tractor is operated in
reverse. Probably the best use for a front blade is
clearing snow – not a major problem in Louisiana. In
addition to dedicated front blades, it is possible
to buy front blades that fit on front-end loaders in
place of the bucket.
Cultivator
A row-crop cultivator
can be used with a compact tractor to help control
weeds in a large garden or a small commercial
vegetable operation. Mechanical weed control is
ecologically sound and inexpensive compared with
herbicides. Unlike herbicides, mechanical weed
control is not crop-specific. Cultivators are
available in many configurations including rigid
shank, spring tine, sweep, point, rolling and indi-
vidual floating gangs; however, the inexpensive
cultivators most frequently sold for use with
compact tractors tend to have several spring tines
with points rather than sweeps. This type of
cultivator is considerably less effective than the
individual floating gangs with sweeps that are
normally used on multi-row cultivators. Singlerow
cultivators with individual floating gangs and
sweeps can be configured from available components,
but they will cost much more than the
readily-available spring tine and point cultivators.
For commercial operations, consider cone guide
wheels. These, operating on shaped beds following
precision planting, allow much more precise
cultivation with less effort. Cone guide wheels are
hard to justify for a garden.
Dirt scoop
A dirt scoop is
a handy attachment for small tractors. It will allow
you to dig, move and dump small quantities of soil,
gravel, sand or other materials much easier than you
can do with a shovel and wheelbarrow and much less
expensively than with a front-end loader on your
tractor. A dirt scoop may be called by other names
such as a rear bucket, slip bucket or slip scoop. It
mounts on the 3-point hitch of a tractor. It is
raised and lowered by the tractor, and usually has a
manual dump, triggered by pulling a rope. The scoop
or bucket can be reversed (by hitching to either
end), thus allowing you to dig in either forward or
reverse, depending on the requirements of a given
project. The normal mode of action is to scoop up a
load of material in the bucket, haul it wherever
needed and dump it.
The most important
advantage of a dirt scoop is low cost. One can be
purchased for less than $300. It provides a low-cost
mechanized alternative to a shovel and wheelbarrow.
It is useful for small digging projects around a
homestead and for small grounds maintenance jobs. It
is certainly not as versatile as a front-end loader,
nor does it match the capacity of a front-end
loader, but it costs much less. Because it mounts on
the rear of the tractor, good traction is available
for digging. A dirt scoop cannot handle as large a
load as a front-end loader. Because a dirt scoop is
behind the tractor, visibility may be limited and
awkward. A simple dirt scoop is a useful implement
for your compact tractor and performs some of the
fun
Disk bedder
Most gardens and row crops in the Deep South are
planted on raised beds. In most cases, the best way
to lay out beds is with a disk bedder (Figure 12),
also locally called a “hipper.” Disk bedders may
have two or three blades on each side; the blades
may be the same or different sizes, depending on
model.
A disk bedder can be used for primary
tillage (operated on ground that has not been
previously worked with another implement) or
secondary tillage (operated after some other
operation such as plowing or disking). A disk bedder
is an aggressive tool capable of slicing through
plants or plant residue. Notched blades enhance the
ability of the tool to slice through plants and
plant residue and make the implement more
aggressive.
Some commercial vegetable growers
bed up their fields in the off season and plant a
cover crop such as peas or soybeans on the beds,
then come in before planting their main crop and
split the beds open with a disk bedder, burying the
cover crop in the old middles under the new beds.
The primary challenge in using a disk bedder is
getting straight beds at the proper spacings. With
larger tractors, multi-row bedders ensure proper
spacing between beds; with a one-row bedder, it is
all up to the driver. In some cases, it is best to
make one light pass to lay out the beds, then a
second, deeper pass to attain the desired bed
height.
Hitching, unhitching and storage of
disk bedders is a problem since they will not stand
up by themselves when unhitched. Simply leaning the
implement against a post or tree is not safe; it
could fall on someone. If you must lean an implement
like this against a tree or post, tie or chain it to
the tree or post so it can’t fall over. It is
possible to build a simple frame to support a disk
bedder (or any similar implement) (Figure 13). A
frame like this is much safer and makes hitching and
unhitching much easier.
Disk
harrow
Although moldboard plows are
used for primary tillage in more northern areas, a
disk harrow is frequently the primary tillage tool
of choice in the South. Disk harrows are available
in several configurations: single, tandem and
offset. The most common disk harrow for use with a
compact tractor is the tandem disk that has four
gangs as shown in Figure 14. The front gangs throw
soil out, and the rear gangs move it back toward the
center. The angle of the individual gangs can be
changed to make the disk more aggressive; the
greater the angle, the more aggressive the disk.
Disk harrows depend on weight to penetrate the
soil, thus many disks have some provision for extra
weight to be added. This is particularly important
on light, inexpensive disks for compact tractors.
Widths of 4 to 6 feet are common with compact
tractors. Blade diameter and spacing influence
cutting depth and quality of tillage. Spacing the
individual blades closer together provides finer
tilth. Bigger blades can cut deeper. Many disks have
notched blades. The notches cut plant residue better
and also act like gears, engaging the soil to keep
the blades turning rather than slipping. A disk
harrow has a tendency to leave a furrow at the edge
of the pattern where the outer rear blade digs soil
to throw inward. Some larger agricultural disks have
an additional small disk on the outside of each rear
gang to fill this furrow; this feature is normally
not found on small disks. The operator has to
correct for the periodic furrows with another
tillage tool such as a spike harrow or drag, or live
with the furrows. If a disk harrow is used as the
only tillage tool, multiple passes will be necessary
in most cases to get decent tilth and incorporation
of plant residue. Making additional passes at
various angles to the first pass is most effective.
Two primary wear areas on disks are the blades
and the bearings. Bearings on larger ag disks can
generally be lubricated, but most small disks use
sealed bearings that cannot be regreased. Blade wear
is a factor of both use and soil type. If you do
disassemble a disk gang to replace bearings and/or
blades, you must tighten it back up correctly. The
normal rule is to use a cheater bar on your wrenches
and get the axle nut as tight as you can get it;
then give it another turn. A small disk can be
useful for preparing a garden site, working small
farm fields, preparing wildlife food plots and
loosening soil on landscape construction sites.
It is an inexpensive and fairly high speed
tillage tool. It can be used for either primary or
secondary tillage. Small disks are available from
many manufacturers.
Generator
Most folks in the Gulf Coast area
understand the value of home generators to keep
power in their homes when hurricanes strike. Further
from the coast, home generators are useful when ice
or snow knocks down power lines. Generators are also
handy for projects requiring the use of electric
tools when away from an electric outlet. Although
most people opt for small engine-driven generators,
there are some real advantages to a generator that
connects to a tractor power-take-off (PTO).
Advantages of a PTO generator compared with an
engine-powered generator are: - No additional engine
to maintain - Since you don’t have to buy an engine,
you can get more capacity (kilowatts) for your
money. - No need to start the generator regularly to
keep it ready to run – a PTO generator can sit
unused for many months and still be ready to go. -
Assuming you use your tractor regularly, it is more
likely to start and run when you need it than a
small engine on a generator. One horsepower equals
0.75 kilowatt (kw), so you can multiply your
tractor’s PTO hp by 0.75 and get an idea of the
maximum size of generator your tractor can handle.
Because the generator is not 100% efficient, you
will probably not be able to actually deliver quite
that much power. On the other hand, you can always
buy a generator that is rated a little too large for
your tractor, and just not connect up a full
electric load. If you do overload the equipment, PTO
rpm will drop, causing the frequency of the current
to drop and the tractor may stall.
Depending
on size of the tractor and generator, the system may
or may not allow you to run the whole house.
Typically, you will be able to run lights and
appliances, but not an air conditioner or heat pump.
It is absolutely essential that you connect your
generator to your house in a safe and approved
manner. Most small engine-driven generators just
have outlets to plug in extension cords so that you
can disconnect your appliances or whatever from the
house circuit and connect them directly to the
generator. PTO generators may also have some outlets
for extension cords, but typically have one big
outlet for a large 240-volt plug that can be used to
connect to the house service entrance.
Grader Blade
A
relatively new implement for compact tractors that
is becoming increasingly popular is a grader blade,
sometimes called a road scraper. Models from
different companies offer somewhat different
configurations, but generally have two or more
angled blades mounted rigidly in a frame. They mount
on a tractor 3-point hitch. They are used to drag
and level gravel or dirt roads and driveways. They
are easier and faster to use than an angle blade or
a box blade. They are generally available in widths
from 5 to 7 feet. It is important that the 3-point
hitch be properly adjusted to keep the implement
level. There are no moving parts to replace. Like
any blade, there are different quality levels
available; it is worthwhile to get one that is heavy
enough that it won’t bend in use. Although this is a
fairly specialized implement, it can be useful if
you have a lot of road or driveway to maintain.
Harrow
Harrows
are valuable implements for secondary tillage –
smoothing and leveling soil and breaking up clods.
They are useful for preparing both fields and
landscape areas for planting and for spreading
manure piles in pastures. Several types of harrows
are available; they differ in aggressiveness and
depth of tillage. Spring-tooth harrows are the most
aggressive. The tines can be C-shaped tines or
S-shaped (“Danish”) tines that provide side-to-side
vibration. The tines can be tipped with points or
small sweeps. Sweeps do a better job of uprooting
all weeds. The spring tines of either type catch and
then spring loose, thus vibrating and removing
weeds. They also break up clods. Spring-tooth
harrows are usually mounted on a 3-point hitch.
Spike-tooth harrows are relatively rigid tools
that are not as aggressive as spring-tooth harrows.
Spike-tooth harrows are usually available in
sections about 4 feet wide. They can be ganged on a
bar as shown in Figure 20 to provide a wider working
width. They can be pulled from the drawbar or
mounted on a 3- point hitch. A drawbar hitch is less
expensive, but it complicates transport. The angle
of the teeth can be adjusted from vertical to angled
back almost flat. The more vertical the teeth, the
more aggressive the action.
Chain harrows are
offered by several companies. They are popular for
landscape use and are used in agriculture. They are
flexible and do a good job of smoothing and leveling
before sodding or seeding turfgrass. They are
available in many widths and do not require a great
deal of power. Most models are pulled from the
drawbar. Some can be rolled up for storage or
transport. Harrows are useful in farming and
landscape operations as a final secondary tillage
tool. They are generally inexpensive, easy to use
and require minimal power to pull.
Hay implements
Although
compact tractors are small, they can be used to pull
some smaller hay implements including
mower/conditioners, rakes and balers. Hay equipment
will not be covered in detail in this publication.
Most hay in the South is cut with disc mowers rather
than sicklebar mowers because disc mowers handle
fire ant mounds better. Most farmers have now gone
to mower/conditioners rather than just mowers. The
conditioners can either crush the stems between
rubber rolls or crimp them between corrugated rolls
– or both. Conditioning allows the hay to dry
faster, reducing the likelihood of the crop being
rained on before it is baled. Mower/conditioners can
leave the hay in a swath or a windrow.
Hay
rakes come in two functional styles: basket rakes
and wheel rakes. Both types are considered
sidedelivery rakes and convey the hay to the side to
form a windrow. Both types of rakes are ground
driven. There are also two types of balers that can
be pulled with compact tractors. Small rectangular
bales can be made by conventional balers and the
power requirement is reasonable for a compact
tractor. Compact tractors can also operate the
smaller sizes of large round baler.
Loader
One of the most
popular implements for compact tractors is a
front-end loader. A loader will allow you to dig,
move soil or other bulk products, carry bags and
other bulky items, lift equipment (using a chain),
move hay bales, lift pallets and even do light
grading. Not all compact tractors are equipped with
the necessary hydraulic connections for a loader, so
be sure you check on hydraulics if adding a loader
to an existing tractor. Some manufacturers now offer
front-end loaders that are much easier to attach and
remove (once initially mounted) than in the past,
making it more practical to remove a loader when you
don=t need it.
A loader for a compact
tractor may cost $2,000-$3,000, depending on size
and quality. In most cases, a loader made by the
tractor manufacturer will cost more, but it should
fit better and will be designed specifically for
your tractor model. Most loaders use a single-lever
control instead of the two-lever controls of the
past. The fore-and-aft movement of the lever raises
the loader and the side-toside movement tilts the
bucket. Most front-end loaders are sold with just a
material bucket, but there are many other options
that can increase the versatility of a loader
including pallet forks, manure forks, bale spears,
blades and grapples. Some loaders and attachments
conform to the quick-attach standard for skid-steer
loaders so that skid-steer attachments can be used
on those loaders. Front-end loaders are popular, but
expensive, options.
Many people who buy a
small tractor with a loader find that they seldom
use the loader. The loader is a nuisance to leave on
the tractor, reduces visibility and makes it more
difficult to maneuver, but can be a hassle to remove
– even with the new, faster mounting systems. If you
really do need a loader, consider getting a compact
tractor with front-wheel assist for both improved
traction and increased front-axle load capacity. If
you are going to use a loader extensively, consider
either a shuttle shift or a hydrostatic transmission
to ease the frequent direction reversals.
Counterweight will be needed on the rear of the
tractor to balance the front-end load. This can be
accomplished several ways. Rear wheel weights and
fluid in the rear tires will help, but more weight
may be needed. If so, the weight can be added to the
3-point hitch either by just hitching to a heavy
implement or by using a 3-point mounted weight box
filled with sand, concrete, gravel, soil, etc. If a
quick hitch is used, it is easy to hitch or unhitch
from a weight box as needed. There are several
safety issues with front-end loaders.
Never
leave a tractor without lowering the loader
completely to the ground. This is both a safety
issue and an important step in protecting the loader
hydraulic system. When the loader is left in a
raised position, sunlight heating the hydraulic
lines can build up pressures in the lines that are
much higher than rated operating pressures, leading
to possible hose rupture. When driving with a
loader, keep the bucket as low as possible. This
will make the unit more stable, reduce the risk of
encountering overhead power lines and improve
visibility. Be careful to keep the bucket level when
lifting objects such as hay bales high to prevent
them from rolling back down the loader arms onto the
driver. Be careful not to raise the bucket high when
on uneven ground because an overturn could occur. Be
especially careful to keep your ROPS raised and wear
your seatbelt when using a loader.
Log splitter
Many people
use log splitters to prepare firewood for stoves and
fireplaces. Many small engine-driven log splitters
are available, but if you own a compact tractor, a
better choice might be a log splitter powered by
your tractor’s hydraulic system . This avoids the
problem of maintaining another small engine and can
provide better splitter performance. Some tractor
log splitters operate vertically and some
horizontally. The horizontal type are generally
better for splitting smaller logs, but the vertical
type makes it easier to split large, heavy logs.
Some machines can be used in either mode.
Splitting force is a factor of both hydraulic
pressure and cylinder diameter. Because of the high
pressure available on tractors, the cylinders may
not need to be as large on tractor units as on units
powered by a small engine. Operating speed is
determined by hydraulic flow rate and cylinder size.
The smaller the cylinder, the faster the cycle time.
Thus, it is desirable to use the smallest cylinder
that will provide the necessary force; a cylinder
larger than that will slow you down.
For
safety reasons, a tractor-powered log splitter
should have a separate hydraulic valve on the
splitter itself and not depend on the tractor
hydraulic lever. Using the tractor hydraulic lever
to control the motion of the cylinder usually
requires two people: one handling the log and one
running the lever. It is dangerous to have the
cylinder operated by someone other than the person
holding and maneuvering the log. To use a separate
control valve on the splitter, the tractor hydraulic
lever must be held in the “on” position while using
the splitter. Some tractor models have a lock
position (intended for use with hydraulic motors);
others require tying the lever in the “on” position
with a rope or bungee cord. Either method can create
a hazard if the tractor hydraulic lever is not
released when the splitter is not in use. The fact
that a log splitter operates slowly tends to enhance
safety; nevertheless, if a body part is caught by
the splitter, it can be crushed or severed. There is
also a danger of flying objects when a log suddenly
splits and/ or drops. Safety glasses are needed.
Foot protection is essential when running a splitter
– wear steel-toe boots. Gloves will help protect
hands from splinters.
Middlebuster (Hipper or Lister)
A
middlebuster or lister is shaped like two moldboard
plows joined together. It opens a furrow and throws
soil in both directions. One middlebuster can be
mounted on a toolbar to make a furrow, or two
middlebusters can be mounted on a toolbar to form
beds.
A middlebuster is good for forming a
furrow for planting crops such as potatoes. It is
also useful for busting out existing beds. A common
practice among vegetable growers is to plant crops
such as cucumber or cantaloupe on every other bed;
then when the crops start to run, the alternate beds
are busted out to make wide beds.
A similar
use for a middle buster is to plant a cover crop
such as peas or beans on beds, then bust out the
beds and bury the cover crop in the middles. A
middlebuster is generally harder to control than a
disk bedder. It will tend to catch on roots, rocks
or even hard clay and jerk the tractor to the side;
a disk bedder will tend to ride over such obstacles.
A middlebuster needs to be able to trip in some
manner when it hits an immoveable object. Most
small, inexpensive middlebusters just have a pivot
bolt and a second bolt in an open slot that allows
the bottom to trip, but must be manually reset with
a wrench. More expensive models have spring trips
that reset without tools.
Mower – Finishing
Finishing mowers
are also called grooming mowers. Finishing mowers
have decks that are virtually the same as the decks
on mid-mount mowers. They typically have three
blades. Height is controlled by four gage wheels
(two wheels on cheap models). These mowers vary
greatly in quality with corresponding price
differences. This is a case where it is worthwhile
to buy a high-quality mower with a heavy deck, four
heavy gage wheels, heavy frame and heavy power
transmission components. The better models use
separate belts to drive the outer blades and
eliminate the need for a back-side idler on the
drive belt; this dramatically improves belt life.
Finishing mowers can provide cut quality
equal to mid-mount mowers. They work well for mowing
open areas, but they are difficult to maneuver
around trees or other obstacles. They are easily
attached and removed. They are not designed to cut
tall, weedy grass. They have multiple gage wheels
and rollers that allow a relatively low cutting
height with minimal scalping. Some gage wheel
heights are controlled by pins in a series of holes
and some by moving bushings. By setting all four
wheels to the same setting, you can control the
height of cut. You then merely drop the 3- point
hitch all the way down and let the mower ride on the
gage wheels. Some cheaper finishing mowers have only
two gage wheels, so the front of the deck must be
carried by the tractor the same way a rotary cutter
is carried, and must be adjusted the same way as a
rotary cutter.
To measure the height of cut
for a finishing mower, park the tractor and mower
deck on a smooth, level (preferably paved) surface,
and measure the distance from the ground up to the
cutting edge of the blades (be sure the tractor
engine is turned off). This measurement should be
the same for all blades. It may come as a surprise
to you that the deck should not be run level. With
any rotary mower, it is desirable to set the front
slightly lower so that the blade cuts at the front,
and the rear of the blade does not recut the grass
or drag on the grass. This will reduce the power
requirement and provide a cleaner cut. This slight
angle should be designed into your finishing mower
so that all you have to do is set the front and rear
gage wheels to the same position to achieve the
correct “nose down” position. When you are running a
finishing mower, the sway bars or chains on the
3-point hitch of the tractor should be reasonably
tight to assure that the mower follows straight
behind the tractor and doesn’t sway. This is
especially important when you have to back up.
A finishing mower must be able to pivot
vertically about the lower link pins of the 3-point
hitch to allow the mower deck to follow ground
contours, yet it must have a limit on this flexing
motion to allow the mower to be raised for
transport. All finishing mowers employ some type of
moving linkage on the upper hitch point to allow
this, but improper adjustment can negate it. You
must adjust the upper link of the 3-point hitch on
your tractor to allow some flex of the mower deck,
but still be able to lift the mower. This adjustment
is somewhat subjective, but adjust the length of the
upper link out enough that when you lift the 3-point
hitch above the normal operating point, the rear
gage wheels remain on the ground for a while as the
front of the mower lifts, but the rear gage wheels
eventually lift at least a foot off the ground when
the 3-point hitch is completely raised. A finishing
mower must also be level from side to side. The
easiest way to check this is to bend down behind the
deck (with the PTO disengaged) and sight over the
deck at the tractor rear axle. If the deck is not
parallel with the tractor axle, you will need to
adjust one of the lower 3-point hitch lift arms
until it is parallel.
All of these steps are
simple to do and take only a few minutes, but they
contribute significantly to both the quality of cut
and the longevity of your mower. Safety is a
consideration with any mower. If it can cut grass,
it can cut hands and feet. All finishing mowers
should be equipped with safety chains, front and
rear. These chains substantially reduce, but don’t
eliminate, the hazard of thrown objects. Do not
operate the machine within 200-300 feet of any
bystanders. Before operating, pick up any rocks,
trash or anything that could be thrown. Be sure
blade bolts are tight so the blades can’t come off.
Avoid hitting any solid objects that could fracture
a blade. Always avoid contact with the PTO shaft.
The PTO should be turned off before you leave the
tractor seat, and the mower rotation should be
completely stopped before anyone approaches.
Mower, Flail
Flail
mowers are often used by highway mowing and park
maintenance crews because they are somewhat less
likely to throw objects. On a flail mower, the
blades are freeswinging and rotate around a
horizontal axis. The cut from a flail mower is
distinctive and different from rotary mowers. The
blades are often Y-shaped (or sometimes, half a Y),
so the mown grass has a combed or ridged appearance.
Some people like this effect; some do not. Control
of cutting height may depend on the tractor 3-point
hitch, although some models have an adjustable
roller to control height. Even though flail mowers
are less likely to throw objects than a rotary
mower, there is still a thrown objects hazard and
caution is needed. Also, as with any mower, there
are hazards from the PTO shaft and the moving
blades.
Mower, Reel
Reel mowers are much less common than other
mowers, but gang reel mowers are available for
compact tractors. Reel mowers are used primarily
where a high cutting quality and low cutting height
are required such as golf courses, athletic fields,
parks and sod farms. Pull-type gang reel mowers can
be ground driven or driven by a hydraulic motor on
each unit. Reel mowers will not cut tall or tough
grass and weeds, but they will do an excellent job
of maintaining quality turf. If the height of the
turf to be cut is not excessive, reel mowers give a
very clean cut. The power requirement for reel
mowers is relatively low, allowing a compact tractor
to pull a fairly wide mower. The rollers on reel
mowers give the turf the striped look common on
sports fields.
Reel mowers should be used
only with tractors having turf tires; it does not
make sense to go to the expense of a reel mower to
attain high-quality turf and then drive on it with
lugged tires. Pull-type gang reel mowers are best
suited to open turf areas with few, if any, trees or
other obstacles. Reels are easily damaged if you hit
any obstacles with them or run anything except grass
through them. Reel mowers are much more difficult to
sharpen than other mowers. In addition to
sharpening, they have to be back-lapped to achieve
the close tolerances required. The primary safety
issue with reel mowers is avoiding contact with the
moving blades.
Mower, Rotary
Cutter
A rear-mounted rotary cutter
is often referred to as a Bush Hog - equivalent to
referring to all soft drinks as Cokes. These mowers
have a single blade (in the sizes used on compact
tractors) and are designed for heavy, rough cutting.
They are not designed to mow grass as short as is
common for lawns and should not be set to cut lower
than about 3 inches. They will cut light brush (1 to
2 inches in diameter, depending on model). They are
not highly maneuverable because of their length.
Cutting height is adjusted by moving both the rear
gage wheel and the 3-point hitch on 3-point hitch
models. Pull-type models with two wheels are
available but less common. Both types are easily
attached and removed. Widths of 4 to 6 feet are
common with compact tractors.
The most common
error with the use of rotary cutters is cutting too
low. Rotary cutters are not designed to be finish
mowers. If you want to cut turfgrass 2 inches high,
you should use a lawn mower or a finishing mower
(also called a grooming mower). Since a 3-point
hitch rotary cutter typically has a wide deck with
only one large blade and only one gage wheel, it
cannot follow ground contours and is prone to
scalping if run too low. To achieve the desired
cutting height on a typical 3-point hitch mounted
rotary cutter, you must do two things. First, you
must adjust the rear gage wheel to position the
blade at the desired height, and then you must set
the 3-point hitch control to hold the front of the
mower deck at the correct height. You should make
these adjustments with the tractor and mower parked
on solid, level ground – preferably pavement. The
gage wheel may have a slide adjustment, a series of
holes for adjustment or a stack of bushings that are
moved above or below the collar. Set the deck
approximately level with the 3-point hitch, measure
the height from the ground to the cutting edge of
the blade at the rear (with the tractor turned off)
and then adjust as needed to obtain a cutting height
of at least 3 inches. The deck should not be run
level. With any rotary mower, it is desirable to set
the front slightly lower (¼ to ½ inch on a 4- to
6-foot rotary cutter) so that the blade cuts at the
front, and the rear of the blade does not recut the
grass or drag on the grass. This will reduce the
power requirement and provide a cleaner cut. After
you have set the cutting height at the rear using
the gage wheel, you will need to adjust the 3-point
hitch so that the cutting edge of the blade at the
front is ¼ to ½ inch lower than at the rear. If your
tractor has an adjustable stop on the 3-point hitch
control, you should set it at this point. If the
tractor has a marked scale on the 3- point hitch
control, note and remember the setting. If your
tractor has neither, just take a pen or marker and
make a small mark at the correct setting so you can
come back to it again after you raise or lower the
mower.
When running a rotary cutter, the sway
bars or chains on the 3-point hitch of the tractor
should be reasonably tight to assure that the mower
follows straight behind the tractor and doesn’t
sway. This is especially important when you have to
back up. A rotary cutter must be able to pivot
vertically about the lower link pins of the 3-point
hitch to allow the mower deck to flex up when the
rear of the tractor goes into a depression and flex
down when the rear of the tractor goes over a bump,
yet must also have a limit on this flexing motion to
allow the mower to be raised for transport. All
rotary cutters use some type of moving linkage on
the upper hitch point to allow this, but improper
adjustment can negate it. You must adjust the upper
link of the 3-point hitch on your tractor to allow
some flex of the mower deck, but still be able to
lift the mower. This adjustment is somewhat
subjective, but you should adjust the length of the
upper link out enough that when you lift the 3-point
hitch above the normal operating point, the gage
wheel remains on the ground for a while as the front
of the mower lifts, but the gage wheel eventually
lifts at least a foot off the ground when the
3-point hitch is completely raised.
A rotary
cutter must also be level from side to side. The
easiest way to check this is to bend down behind the
deck (with the PTO disengaged) and sight over the
deck at the tractor rear axle. If the deck is not
parallel with the tractor axle, you will need to
adjust one of the lower 3-point hitch lift arms
until it is parallel.
All of these steps are
simple to do and take only a few minutes, but they
contribute significantly to both the quality of cut
and the longevity of your mower. All rotary cutters
are inherently dangerous. Reputable manufacturers do
all they can to reduce the risks associated with
rotary cutters, but the ultimate safety
responsibility rests with the operator. Hazards with
rotary cutters include thrown objects, direct blade
contact and PTO entanglement.
Of all the
hazards inherent in a rotary cutter, the hazard of
thrown objects is perhaps least recognized by
operators and bystanders. The blades on a rotary
cutter may have a tip speed of more than 150 mph.
Objects such as stones, cans, bottles (or
fragments), pieces of limbs or roots and other
debris can be thrown more than 300 feet. Too many
people assume that a rotary cutter will not throw
objects very far, but testing and documented
accidents have demonstrated that objects can be
thrown farther than the length of a football field –
and still have enough velocity and momentum to cause
serious injury. Objects thrown from a rotary cutter
can injure you in several ways. Sharp objects can
cause severe puncture wounds. Heavy objects can
strike the head or body, causing concussion or
death. The most common injury, however, is eye
damage. Even small objects can injure an eye and
cause blindness. A properly designed and equipped
rotary cutter can reduce the risk of injury.
The cutter deck should be designed to conform to
American Society of Agricultural Engineers Standard
S474.1 – Agricultural Rotary Mower Safety. This
standard prescribes several safety features for
rotary cutters and also contains a procedure for
testing rotary cutters for thrown objects using
nails dropped through tubes inserted in the deck.
Conforming to this standard means that the
manufacturer has designed the machine to conform to
the state of the art in thrown objects reduction.
Nevertheless, the standard does not require or imply
total elimination of thrown objects, just a
significant reduction in the incidence of thrown
objects. Chain guards on the front and rear of the
mower can reduce the thrown objects hazard even
more, but they will not eliminate the hazard. Chain
guards will typically reduce the number of thrown
objects by half and significantly reduce the
velocity of those that are thrown. Other shielding
such as rubber belting or metal bands are used on
some machines, but may interfere with mowing
efficacy. Most manufacturers offer chain guards;
some make them standard equipment, but with a delete
option. The cost of chain guards varies with the
size of cutter and with the manufacturer. The cost
of chain guards may range from under $100 on small
economy machines to well over $500 on larger
heavy-duty cutters.
As an equipment operator,
you must be aware of the hazards inherent in thrown
objects and take steps to minimize the danger. The
first and most important step is to operate a rotary
cutter only if there are no people or animals within
300 feet (or more). If anyone approaches within that
range, you should immediately turn off the tractor
PTO to stop the cutter and not resume operation
until the site is clear of bystanders. Using chain
guards is also recommended. It is imperative to use
chain guards if you will be working in an area where
bystanders might approach within 300 feet. Operating
without chain guards is acceptable only in
situations where there is no possibility of another
person within 300 feet.
Bystanders also have
an obligation to stay away from rotary cutters.
Although rotary cutters are typically noisy and are
visibly dangerous, you should warn family members or
anyone else who might approach of the dangers and
tell them to stay back at least 300 feet. If a
person must approach within several hundred feet of
a rotary cutter, he should wear safety glasses. The
most dangerous area is the rear of the machine. The
thrown object hazard with rotary cutters is not
fully recognized by everyone. It is a very real
hazard that can cause injury, blindness or even
death. You should buy and use a safe rotary cutter
and never operate if anyone gets within 300 feet (or
more) of the machine.
Mower –
Sicklebar
Sicklebar mowers are no
longer common, but they have some advantages. They
are useful for reaching down into ditches or up onto
a slope while the tractor remains level. They will
cut tall material without plugging. They require
little power. They do not cut or shred the cut
material, so the full-length clippings will be left
lying on the ground. Although sicklebar mowers
usually incorporate a safety break-away, they are
susceptible to damage if you run them into
obstacles. The primary safety hazards with sicklebar
mowers are sicklebar contact and entrapment in the
powertrain. Although these mowers tend to be safer
than rotary cutters, care in operation is still
required.
Pallet Forks
There are several ways to handle
pallets with a compact tractor. The most common way
is with a pallet fork attachment to replace the
bucket on a front-end loader. Maneuvering forks in
this configuration is more awkward than with a
dedicated fork lift, but it is still a
reasonably handy way to pick up and move pallets.
Loaders on small compact tractors will not be able
to lift heavy pallets. Counterweight on the rear of
the tractor will be needed to pick up and move a
pallet safely.
A faster and easier way of
adding forks to a frontend loader is to mount the
forks to the front of the bucket. There are kits
that consist of hooks that mount to the top of the
bucket. The forks are attached to a heavy steel bar
across the tops of the forks. The driver just drives
up to the forks, tilts the bucket so that the hooks
grab the forks, then tilts it back and is ready to
go. Some systems reverse the attachment method and
put the bar on the bucket and the hooks on the
forks. This system is easy to hitch to but has two
major drawbacks: because it fits out in front of the
bucket, it moves the load even further forward and
reduces load capacity, and it is often impossible to
see the forks because of the bucket. This makes it
difficult to pick up a pallet.
Fork lift
attachments are also available for the rear of the
tractor. Some mount to the 3-point hitch and are
similar to hay forks; others are on wheels and pull
behind the tractor. The 3-point hitch units can
carry the heaviest load (for a given tractor size)
of any tractormounted type. They are reasonably easy
to maneuver, relatively inexpensive and easy to
attach. They allow you to move pallets, but not lift
or stack them. The primary safety issues with pallet
forks are avoiding overloads and overturns. Do not
pick up more than your tractor is rated to handle.
Be sure to keep the load low. Don’t lift a pallet
high when on rough ground. If using pallet forks on
a front-end loader, be careful to keep the forks
level as you lift.
Plow –
Moldboard
The traditional implement
for primary tillage is the moldboard plow. A
moldboard plow is an effective tillage tool that
slices one side and the bottom of a strip of soil
and inverts that slice into the adjacent furrow from
the previous soil strip. While inverting the soil
strip, the curved shape of the plow bottom twists
and fractures the soil, leaving it loose and friable
(if the moisture is right). Surface vegetation is
buried and the inverted soil is broken up somewhat.
In most soils, compact tractors will be able to
handle only one or two bottoms, although draft
depends on soil type and depth as well as width of
the plow bottom(s).
A moldboard plow on a
compact tractor is useful primarily for home gardens
and market gardens. Since moldboard plows have not
been popular in the South for many years, few people
know how to adjust or use one correctly. For a small
moldboard plow to work correctly, the right tires on
the tractor must be set the correct distance from
the tractor centerline so that the tires run in the
previous furrow. The plow operator’s manual should
give this specification. The plow must then be
leveled correctly from front to rear, and adjusted
from side to side so that the plow frame is level
when the tractor is running in the previous furrow.
A coulter ahead of the moldboard is often necessary
to slice the sod or other surface vegetation ahead
of the moldboard. It should be adjusted to run about
¾ inch to the left of the side of the plow. It is
also necessary to set the tail wheel properly to
hold the plow in place. Some plows have other
accessories like trash boards to help invert taller
sod.
A correctly plowed field is beautiful
and forms the basis for a good seedbed, but
moldboard plowing seems to be a dying art. Problems
with moldboard plowing include soil compaction by
the plow and lack of residue on the surface, leaving
the surface prone to erosion.
Post Hole Digger
Digging
post holes is a common job for compact tractors.
Many companies make post hole diggers that mount on
the 3-point hitch of a compact tractor. They are
powered by the tractor’s PTO. Rural homeowners use
post hole diggers for setting fence posts, and
landscape contractors use them for both fence posts
and for planting trees and shrubs. Augers are
usually sold separately from the digger head and are
available in sizes from 4 inches to 12 inches.
Augers for tree planting are available in sizes to
30 inches, but the larger sizes are usually intended
for larger tractors.
Post hole diggers work
well in some soils but may have trouble penetrating
hard soils. Although post hole diggers are often
used to dig planting holes for trees and shrubs, the
augers have a tendency to “slick” and compact the
soil on the sides of the hole, limiting root growth.
If an auger encounters roots or other obstacles in
the soil, they can be forced down rapidly and may
break a shear pin. Both the PTO shaft and the auger
can cause serious injury if a person becomes
entangled. Do not wear loose clothing around an
auger; keep people away from the machine while in
operation.
Rake –Landscape
A useful tool for landscape
contractors is a landscape rake. These rakes are
used primarily for preparing ground for seeding or
sodding of turfgrass. They break up soft clods and
can rake away hard clods. They lightly scratch the
soil surface and leave just enough surface roughness
to provide a good basis for seeding. Many landscape
rakes are designed to allow them to be angled to the
side – helpful in removing and windrowing rocks,
trash or hard clods. A landscape rake should not be
used to rake leaves, clippings or pine straw from
turf. It is too aggressive and will damage the turf.
Rake – Lawn and Pine Straw
Most lawns need to be raked at one
time or another to remove clippings or to collect
leaves or pine needles. Pine straw (dead pine
needles) is a valuable resource in the Deep South.
An excellent mulch, it is much in demand for
landscaping. Commercial operators bale pine straw
and sell it to contractors and garden centers who in
turn sell it to homeowners. If you own some land
with pine trees, you can easily rake your own pine
straw.
If you have a limited area of lawn or
pine straw to rake, you can use a garden rake or a
leaf rake. If you have a larger area or want to
collect a considerable quantity of pine straw, a
small tractor rake will save a tremendous amount of
work. Many commercial operators use an old dump rake
for pine straw. This has the advantage of allowing
the driver to back and maneuver among trees, but it
tends to tear out grass and may even act like a
harrow and tear up the sod and soil. Dump rakes are
scarce and hard to find now. Many companies make
3-point hitch landscape rakes with strong spring
teeth. The teeth on these landscape rakes tend to be
too aggressive for lawns and raking pine straw; they
will do even more damage to the soil than the old
dump rakes. Another option is a small landscape
wheel rake. These rakes are sold for use on lawns –
rakingleaves, grass clippings and pine straw. They
do an excellent job of windrowing pine straw and, if
properly adjusted, will not damage the grass or
gouge the soil. Easy to use, they are available in
widths from 4 to 8 feet. They are not popular with
commercial operators because they are not as
maneuverable as dump rakes nor are they as tough.
A wheel-type pine straw rake can be pulled by a
small tractor, a riding mower, a utility vehicle or
an ATV. Proper adjustment is essential: too high and
you will miss the leaves or pine straw; too low and
you will damage the turf and possibly the tines. A
hydraulic cylinder for easy adjustment is an option,
but for a machine that has limited use, the standard
screw adjustment is usually adequate. A major
concern when raking pine straw is to avoid hitting
the trees with the rake. Since pine straw is found
only under pine trees, you will be constantly
dodging trees. Sideswiping a tree can bend the rake
tines. The rake will leave a neat windrow of leaves
or pine straw. Normally, a homeowner will just pick
it up by hand (using a leaf or garden rake) and haul
it to wherever it is needed using a garden cart,
utility vehicle or carrying it by hand. Most farm
hay balers are far too big, heavy and expensive for
occasional use on a homestead. A few companies make
small balers aimed at the pine straw market, but
even they are pricey for a homeowner.
If you
have a large lawn or if you rake up and use a lot of
pine straw on your place, you might want to look
into the use of a wheeled lawn rake.
Rear Angle Blade
One of the
handiest implements you can put on a compact tractor
is an angle blade. Of the several types of blades
available, an angle blade is probably the most
versatile. It can be used for leveling, moving small
amounts of soil, cutting shallow ditches and
back-dragging. Since it mounts to the 3-point hitch,
it is easy to mount and remove.
The
back-dragging function might be its most important
use for homeowners. Back-dragging means that the
blade is turned 180 degrees so that the blade is
dragged backward. In that mode, the blade can be
used to drag and level a gravel road or driveway
with little effort. A blade can be used in the
forward direction to level gravel, but much more
operator skill is required than when backdragging.
Angle blades are available in several
configurations. The cheapest blades merely allow the
blade to be rotated in one plane around a vertical
axis. Better blades also allow rotation around a
horizontal axis so that one side of the blade can be
lowered. A further refinement on some blades allows
the blade to be offset to one side. This can be
accomplished by sliding the blade sideways or, on
some models, by swinging the frame arm to the side.
Operating the blade offset to the side may not work
well with compact tractors since a small tractor may
not be heavy enough to handle an offset blade. This
offset feature tends to be found mainly on larger
blades.
The adjustments on angle blades can
be accomplished several ways. Some models have a
series of holes and pins to hold the blade in the
rotated positions; others have a lever that locks
into notches. Some use a turnbuckle or other
adjustable-length arm for some of the adjustments.
On those models, it is possible to substitute a
hydraulic cylinder for the turnbuckle to allow power
adjustment from the tractor seat. This feature is
more commonly found on larger blades than those used
on compact tractors.
Another feature found on
some larger blades is a gage wheel on the rear. This
makes the blade easier to control, allowing the
tractor and blade to act more like a road grader.
These units normally use a hydraulic cylinder to
control the gage wheel.
Angle blades are
available in a wide range of quality and strength
levels as well as sizes ranging from about 4 feet on
up. The widths most commonly used with compact
tractors are 5 to 7 feet. If the blade is much
wider, a compact tractor may not have the power and
weight to handle it, but if the blade is narrower
than the tractor wheel width, it is hard to do a
good job. A 6- foot blade is a good compromise on
most compact tractors. Some cheap blades are light
and easily damaged (bent) if you hit a rock, root or
stump. You need a blade heavy enough to stall or
stop the tractor before the blade or frame bends.
Another feature to watch for is overall length.
Some models put the blade a long way behind the
tractor. The closer the blade is to the tractor
tires, the easier it is to control depth. This
factor makes a tremendous difference in ease of use.
The only exception is a blade with a gage wheel; in
that case, extra length is an advantage.
An
angle blade is not a major investment, but it is
useful. Be sure to pay enough to get one that is
strong. It is better to sacrifice some size and
features than to get one that is so light it bends
when used.
Rotary tiller
Compact tractors can handle small
rotary tillers. These tillers are useful in
landscape installation and for gardens and small
farms. Rotary tillers can be used for primary or
secondary tillage. They are especially well suited
to once-over tillage and are capable of going from a
vegetated surface to a tilled seedbed in one pass
(under ideal conditions).
The widths
available in rotary tillers for compact tractors run
from about 3 to 5 feet. Since rotary tillers
typically require 10-15 hp per foot of width if
operated at full depth and normal operating speed, a
compact tractor cannot handle a large tiller. Some
smaller compact tractors are not capable of handling
a tiller that matches the full width of the tractor,
thus the tiller must be offset to one side and will
thus till up wheel tracks on only one side. Some
tillers have a fixed offset; others can be shifted
to the side or centered. Most rotary tillers have a
hinged flap on the back that can be fastened up out
of the way or allowed to drag and smooth or level
the soil behind the tiller. Rotary tillers are
powered by the PTO to a gearbox and the tiller shaft
is then driven by either gears or a heavy chain.
Less expensive models use a chain; higher quality
models use gears. It is important to maintain the
proper oil level in the gear case or chain case. The
PTO shaft universal joints and any other grease
fittings should also be lubricated as recommended by
the manufacturer.
Rotary tillers can be run
from an inch or two deep down to 8-9 inches on some
models. Tilling quality is affected by ground speed.
The faster the tiller is moved, the fewer cuts per
foot and the coarser the tillage. By slowing down
(perhaps as slow as one mph), an operator can
achieve very fine tillage of soil. In some cases, a
rotary tiller can do too much tillage and destroy
soil structure. After a heavy rain, some
rotary-tilled soils will “melt” together into a
solid mass with no structure or soil aeration. If a
tiller is operated too fast, it will “walk” across
the surface instead of digging.
Rotary
tillers can be used for cultivation, but using them
in this manner requires a wide spacing between crop
rows. Vegetable growers can use a rotary tiller to
maintain the middles between wide-spaced rows of
tomatoes, eggplant and similar crops. For most
gardens, a walk-behind tiller is much more practical
for cultivation.
Safety issues for rotary
tillers primarily involve contact with rotating
parts (PTO shaft, cross shaft and tine shaft/tines).
It is possible for a tiller to throw objects with
considerable force, so safety glasses are needed for
the operator and any bystanders. Do not engage the
PTO if anyone is near the tiller.
Sprayer
Spraying
pesticides is a common job for compact tractors. The
most common type of sprayer is a boom sprayer
mounted on the 3- point hitch although trailer
sprayers are available, too.
Most of these
sprayers are very simple. They normally use a spray
pump mounted to the tractor PTO. Roller pumps are
common on less expensive units, although centrifugal
pumps also are used. Roller pumps can develop higher
pressure. Centrifugal pumps are limited to around 60
psig, but they can deliver much higher volume – an
advantage for fluid agitation. Simple pressure
regulation, bypass and/or jet agitation, and a flow
control valve complete the plumbing. Most of these
small sprayers have a boom with multiple nozzles for
relatively uniform broadcast spraying. They can be
used for applying herbicides, fungicides,
insecticides and even liquid fertilizers to
turfgrass or to other crops.
Sprayers are
easily customized for a specific need by changing
nozzles, pumps, nozzle spacing, boom height, type of
agitation, etc. Most of the commercially available
sprayers are made by small companies using
off-the-shelf components.
Sprayers have
several safety issues – primarily dealing with the
nature of pesticides and fertilizers. Spray drift
into non-target areas is a serious potential problem
as is overapplication. Calibration is critical to
obtain the correct rate and minimize problems.
Appropriate protective gear should be worn when
mixing, calibrating or spraying. This personal
protective equipment (PPE) is specified on the
product label. Spreader Both rotary and
pendulum-action spreaders are available for 3-point
hitch mounting on compact tractors. Many of the
inexpensive rotary spreaders are of poor quality and
will not yield a uniform distribution pattern. All
rotary spreaders require the operator to adjust the
pattern setting(s) for each product. Even when the
pattern settings are optimized, the patterns will be
non-symmetrical in most cases. A series of pattern
tests is necessary to determine the optimum pattern
settings and the effective swath width. Some
products, particularly turfgrass products, will
provide pattern setting and width recommendations on
the bag labels. Settings are seldom available for
ag-grade fertilizers. Pendulum-action spreaders
should give a symmetrical pattern with all products
without the need for any pattern adjustment. It is
still necessary to determine the effective swath
width, either by testing or from the bag label.
Pendulum spreaders can also be used for banding
fertilizer. With a shortened spout, they can throw
two bands on opposite sides of the tractor with the
spacing between bands determined by spout length,
PTO speed and spout height. If the spout is removed
and a splitter box mounted, they can drop bands of
fertilizer for sidedressing row crops. With either
type of spreader, the rate setting must be
determined by calibration. Even if the product label
provides a setting, this should be used only as a
starting point for calibration.
Stump Grinder
A few
companies manufacture stump grinders that mount on a
tractor 3-point hitch and are powered by the
tractor’s PTO. These stump grinders are not as
versatile as dedicated stump grinders, but they are
much less expensive and are adequate for occasional
use by a contractor, farmer or rural homeowner. They
require a compact tractor with at least one remote
hydraulic outlet, and some require two hydraulic
outlets.
Stump grinders use a wheel with
carbide-tipped teeth to grind up stumps and roots.
The wheel cuts as it is swung from side to side and
lowered and/or moved into the stump before each
swing. Tractor stump grinders rely on the tractor
hitch or a hydraulic cylinder for height adjustment
and use a hydraulic cylinder to swing the cutting
wheel. The tractor has to be backed up to advance
the wheel into the stump for the next cut. It is
important to limit the amount of wood cut per swing.
Lowering the wheel too much or backing too far into
the stump will overload the wheel.
Stumps are
often ground down several inches below the soil
surface so soil can be backfilled over the stump.
This will entail grinding surface roots as well as
the stump.
Stump cutters are extremely
aggressive machines. The cutting wheel can easily
remove a foot or leg. Allow no bystanders in the
area when cutting. Never leave the tractor seat with
the PTO engaged, and wait for the wheel to stop
turning before approaching the rear of the tractor.
Thrown objects are a serious hazard also. The
operator should wear safety glasses or goggles and
hearing protection.
For additional
information on compact tractors Additional
information
on compact tractors is available in
LSU AgCenter Extension Bulletin #2906,
Compact
Tractor Selection, Use and Safety. It is available
on the LSU AgCenter
Web site
(www.lsuagcenter.com).
Author: Richard L. Parish,
Ph.D. , Hammond Research Station, Louisiana State
University Agricultural Center
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